MacGyvered Beds, Cucumber Diets, and Dizzy Days
August 20, 2024
I stayed with Stacey and Miles for three nights (July 25-28th) at the Sur Palace Butik Hotel. It was definitely an upgrade from Şevin’s Airbnb, though still a far cry from what anyone would call luxurious. Miles’ bed was in disrepair, and after he reported it, the staff member humorously “MacGyvered” it by sticking a tiny stool under the mattress.
We switched rooms after the first night due to the issue with Miles’ bed and others and ended up in a setup that was more like two attached rooms. Stacey and I shared the smaller windowless room with twin-size beds, while Miles took the room with the king-size bed and a large window overlooking the square.
Exploring Diyarbakir
Miles’ partner, Bercay, and Bercay’s sister, Zaneb, also joined us for sightseeing around Diyarbakir. I began to enjoy exploring the Grand Mosque and other notable sites, but I often felt overwhelmed. I was still processing everything that had just happened, especially with Mr. Joy and my travels thus far. The group was full of zest. Everyone was a unique character, and conversations flew a million miles a minute, over liver and lamb dinners. Stacey, Miles, and Bercay offered countless suggestions on what I should do next with my life. With my heart and brain already racing, it was a bit much to keep up. I was overstimulated by the environment and still suffering from jet lag. The temperature, often over 40°C, didn’t help either.
A Road Trip to Mardin
At some point, Stacey and the group invited me to join their road trip to Mardin. To be honest, I didn’t know much about this mysterious place, about 55 miles (93 kilometers) away, nor did I have any great expectations. I was just desperate to leave Diyarbakir. We were having a nice time together as a group overall, and I literally had no other plans (for once in my life), so I agreed to go.
On Sunday, July 28th, we crammed into a car Bercay had rented, with me in the backseat in the middle. [Of course, where else would I sit? 🙂] Shortly before leaving, Stacey helped me buy a plane ticket from Mardin to Ankara, where she’s renting her apartment until the end of this August before she moves back to America (Cincinnati, to be specific). She had offered to let me stay with her in Ankara until I figured out my next move. It was a nice gesture, and it seemed like a logical choice.
During our time together, we shared some meals in what I assume is traditional Turkish fashion. I, however, struggled to keep up with the group, as my stomach was in knots, and I spent a lot of time in the bathroom. I began feeling weak, lightheaded, and dizzy, with my caloric intake being at about half of what it would normally be, I’d estimate, for several days in a row.
I’m not as strong, sweet, and patient as my Mama Sheila was, that’s for sure. May she R.I.P.
I was getting hangry.
Experiencing Zerzevan Castle
On our way to Mardin, we stopped at Zerzevan Castle, built in the 4th century by the Eastern Roman Empire as a military base on the ancient trade route between Diyarbakır and Mardin. While it was amazing to see such ancient ruins, the extreme heat (especially for a Chicagoan like me), coupled with dehydration and an empty and upset stomach, made it tough. At some point, I excused myself from the group and returned to the car, as I was feeling like I was going to faint, sh*t, and barf all at the same time. I rarely (i.e. never) get “sick”, and I wouldn’t consider this being “sick” either – just my body was revolting against the sudden diet change from my usual solid staples (tacos – meat & tortillas, rice, and beans) in La Villita, Chicago, to the cucumbers, tomatoes, and watermelon that are ubiquitous in these parts. I certainly wasn’t at my best, but I also didn’t feel the need to apologize for it. Especially not after my banana 🍌got bogarted. 😂 With the heat affecting my brain, I’m sure you can understand why I began to wonder about such (seemingly innocent) mistakes.
Arriving in Mardin
When we arrived in Mardin, we found ourselves staying in a huge mansion with five beds and two terraces. Miles had booked it for three nights. On the first night, we went out for a nice dinner at Marde Restaurant, and I was immediately impressed with Mardin, in awe of everything I saw. Mardin is built on a hilltop, and at the top is Mardin Castle, a 3,000-year-old defensive fortification also known as the Eagle’s Nest. The castle has been used as a military base and supposedly hosts a radar station due to its position 1,000 meters above the Mesopotamian plain.
The next day, Miles wasn’t feeling well either, possibly because his body also wasn’t used to subsisting on cucumbers and tomatoes, so he decided to rest in the mansion while Stacey, Bercay, and I decided to explore the city. At some point, either on the first or second night, Bercay even took Miles to the local hospital to see a doctor. Personally, I avoid doctors like the plague as being my own doctor has always worked out better for me. But, I’m kind of stubborn, and if you walked a mile in my shoes, you’d understand why. Otherwise, you’ll just roll your eyes and move along. Thank you. 🙏
Exploring Mardin
That afternoon we wandered through markets filled with colorful spices, intricate jewelry, and handmade crafts. I bought a blue and black checked scarf for 100 TL. We visited some ancient mosques and marveled at magnificent stone doorways each more beautiful than the last. Stacey was in a photo-taking frenzy most of the time, and I feebly tried to keep up. There are certainly many “Instagrammable” spots at every turn in Mardin. But my body wasn’t in the best shape, so when we finally found ourselves comfortably seated at Tizyano’s, a rooftop cafe pumping Bob Marley, I decided to tell the two of them to take a hike. Just kidding, I didn’t say that but seriously, something in my body urged me to say, I was going to stay put.
I didn’t expect to spend the whole rest of my day there though, and I also didn’t expect anything life-changing. But sometimes, when I travel, I prefer to just sit once I find a place I like and let the world happen around me, and see what comes my way, rather than going and looking for something. We don’t always need to keep going and doing and going and doing and going and doing, do we? No, surely not when we’re in MARDIN!